MILAN (AP) -- Italian menswear for the Spring-Summer 2010 got off to a classy start Saturday, with glitzy glamour at Dolce and Gabbana, and super refinement at Giorgio Armani.

The designing duo kicked off the four days of preview showings with a collection that matched sequined tuxedo jackets with distressed pants, adding a new chapter to the "drunge" (part dandy, part grunge) look they invented a decade ago.

Underneath his torn and shredded trousers, the latest Gabbana grunge wears super soft silk underwear, and sequined sneakers.

Brazilian model Jesus Luz, seen of late stepping out on the town with pop star Madonna, featured heavily in the show, which the designers said was designed to "exalt the beauty of virility."

Later Saturday Giorgio Armani exalted elegance in a collection that recalled the best in the designer's famed tailored look.

The clean cut youths in gray silk, beige tweed or faded blue linen suits with matching shirt and tie, who came down the runway of the Armani theater in downtown Milan accompanied by top-drawer girls in dainty cocktail dresses, looked like they had just stepped out of a 1960's movie.

For a more casual look Armani offered cargo bermudas worn with destructured blazers or striped cashmere cardigans.

The designer was greeted with extra warm applause as he took his bow at the end of the show, looking gaunt, but wearing his trademark T-shirt and jeans work clothes.

It was Armani's first public fashion appearance in several months. The designer had missed the opening of his home furnishing presentation at the Milan furniture fair in April, followed by other no shows, raising concerns about his health.

In an interview with the Italian news agency ANSA at the end of May, the designer said he was battling with hepatitis.

"It's an illness that takes time to get over," he said at the time.

During the current fashion week, the best in the made in Italy label — including Versace, Ferre, Missoni, Bottega Veneta, Cavalli, Gucci and Prada will show — their latest summer wears.